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  • Exploring Old Town Key West’s Distilleries and Breweries

    Posted: 2026-04-16 08:44
    Exploring Key West’s craft beverage scene is unusually simple thanks to the close proximity of several notable producers. Within a short walking radius in Old Town, visitors can move from two rum distilleries to three breweries while learning about the history behind each brand and the products they make. Key West Legal Rum, Papa’s Pilar Rum, Southernmost Pint Brewpub, The Waterfront Brewery, and First Flight Island Restaurant & Brewery each offer a distinct perspective on local production, yet all are easy to visit in a single, unhurried loop.

    Start your tour along the harbor at The Waterfront Brewery and enjoy lunch and a flight watching the boats sail in. The brewery opened a decade ago and produces a wide range of beers including pilsners, IPAs, porters, and rotating specialty releases. Its production facility and taproom share the same building, allowing guests to see the brewing equipment while sampling the core lineup. Their Crazy Lady Blonde Golden Ale is a stable throughout the island and you can probably find Island Life Lager in several establishments - definitely at Hanks. For my money, go with the Danny Gunz ESB (Extra Special Bitter).

    Head west from the harbor and enter the life of Ernest Hemingway. Papa’s Pilar Rum is named after Hemingway’s famous boat and the brand was created to reflect the writer’s connection to Key West and his global travels. The distillery occupies a former naval warehouse and produces blended rums sourced from multiple regions, aged and finished on-site. Core products include the Blonde Rum and Dark Rum, each with defined profiles shaped by solera-style aging and barrel finishing. I highly recommend the tour which provides excellent information on the history of molasses and rum production through the eyes of the British Navy and American colonists.  

    The tour turns to Hemingway's life and how the distillery incorporates various aspects such as the unique bottle shape -- mimicking Hemingway's GI canteen. Apparently he carried two canteens, one filled with rum. The visit ends with a sampling of several expressions including a Rye finished rum and Sherry finished rum.  My favorite was the Papa's Pilar Flagship Blonde Rum which is sourced from several sources from the Dominican Republic, Venezuela, Panama, and Florida; then Solara blended and finished from ex-Bourbon barrels and Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks.  Enjoy neat to savior the vanilla and banana notes or in a Mojito. 

    Key West Legal Rum was founded by chef and entrepreneur Paul Menta and operates out of a restored 1900s-era tobacco warehouse -- just a block away from Papa's Pilar. The distillery focuses on small-batch, pot-distilled rums made from Florida sugarcane. Their lineup includes the Key West First Legal Rum (a white rum showcasing the Demerara sugar cane),  Key West Bad Bitch Rum Spanish Marie (aged in French oak barrels that held Pinot Noir wine for seven years.) and several flavored expressions that highlight local ingredients such as Key lime and coconut. Yet, their most interesting and tasteful product is the Key West Raw and Unfiltered Rum.  It is aged in new American oak barrels with a #3 char where each barrel was cured in salt water from the ocean. As the salt dries on the inside of the barrel, it seals in and condenses the rich flavors of the charred American oak. This rum is very complex - lots cooking spices covered in honey.

    Moving along, the Southernmost Pint Brewpub is only a few minutes away. Founded by Tadd Maudlin with the Blast Beer Company, the brewpub focuses on approachable, island‑appropriate beer styles. For instance, the 3.3% and fantastic English Dark Mild: Birmingham Pub. Include that beer in every flight. I continued with the Southernmost Pint Golden Ale, Heck Yeah Helles LagerKey West Cream Ale, and Key Lime Gose Sour. All were delicious and right on style - particularly the Cream Ale which avoided the sweet lactose overdose of many versions and concentrated on crystal clear flavors.  You won't find a stop with this range of delicious expressions. 

    Finish your excursion with the longest segment -- passing Sloppy Joe's, Rick's, and Captain Tony's -- to First Flight Island Restaurant & Brewery. The brewery is located in the building where Pan American World Airways was founded in 1927, the site originally served as the airline’s first office and ticketing headquarters.  Thus, expect an aviation theme.  In that regard, before rebranding in 2017, the location was home to Kelly’s Caribbean Bar, Grill & Brewery -- owned by Top Gun actress Kelly McGillis. The brewery produces a core lineup of Old Havana Red Amber Ale,  Capt. Maverick IPA, and the Sunset Clipper Citrus Wheat.  Unfortunately the restaurant was hosting a wedding during our visit, so we detoured across the street to Hank's Hair of the Dog Saloon and a meal at Garbo's Gill paired with the Waterfront's Island Life Lager

    What ties these five locations together is their accessibility. All are situated within a compact section of Old Town, eliminating the need for transportation and allowing visitors to move easily from one producer to the next. The short distances make it possible to learn about the history of each brand, understand the products they make, and experience Key West’s beverage landscape in a single, efficient route. Cheers to Key West and these unique craft beverage producers. 

  • The Essence of the Olive: Understanding Moroccan Olive Oil

    Posted: 2026-04-06 07:00
    Morocco is one of the world’s major olive‑oil‑producing countries, with a cultivation history that stretches back thousands of years. Archaeological evidence indicates that wild olive trees existed in the region as early as the 9th millennium BC, and scholarly debate continues over whether indigenous Berber communities may have domesticated olives before Phoenician traders arrived around 1000 BC. Linguistic evidence supports this possibility: the Berber word for the cultivated olive tree, Azemmour, has no Semitic roots, suggesting an origin predating Phoenician influence. The Romans later expanded olive cultivation significantly. During the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, the Romans established extensive groves and oil‑pressing facilities across Mauretania Tingitana, with archaeological sites such as Volubilis preserving well‑designed ancient mills that illustrate the scale of production during this period.

    Olive growing has remained embedded in Moroccan agriculture and daily life ever since, with many families continuing to manage small groves using practices passed down through generations. Today, Morocco produces roughly 140,000 to 250,000 metric tons of olive oil annually, depending on harvest conditions, and maintains more than 1.2 million hectares of olive trees across diverse microclimates. 

    The country’s olive sector is dominated by a single cultivar, Picholine Marocaine, which accounts for approximately 96% of national production. It is a Moroccan variant of the French Picholine olive from the Languedoc region. This variety produces oils that are typically fruity, slightly bitter, and peppery, with notable almond‑like notes and naturally high polyphenol content. Beldi is an umbrella term for local, heirloom Moroccan varieties which includes Moroccan Picholine. Two additional varieties - Haouzia and Menara - are also cultivated, contributing robust or milder, buttery characteristics to blended oils .

    Olive trees thrive across several key regions, each contributing distinct characteristics to the country’s oils. Meknes is widely recognized as Morocco’s primary olive‑oil region and holds Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status for its extra virgin oils. The Fez–Marrakech plains contain extensive traditional orchards that tend to produce slightly bitter, structured oils, while coastal areas such as Essaouira and Agadir yield more delicate, fruity profiles. High‑altitude groves in the Atlas Mountains add further diversity due to their unique microclimates . Harvesting typically occurs from October to January, often by hand to avoid bruising the fruit. Olives are then transported quickly to mills, where both traditional stone presses and modern centrifugal systems are used. Cold‑pressing remains standard practice to preserve quality and minimize oxidation, supporting the production of extra virgin oils with strong sensory and nutritional attributes.


    This Moresh Moroccan Extra Virgin Olive Oil was available through Publix, but its also sold through Wholefoods. Its the first Moroccan olive oil with traceability - with all single origin information available through scanning the QR code on the bottle. This information includes origin, harvest dates, bottling date, test results, and certifications. The Beldi Moroccan Picholine olives for this bottle were grown from dry sun drenched estates throughout Morocco mostly from Marrakech, Meknes, and Fes. This oil contain a number of early harvested olives which elevate the polyphenol count to 360 mg/kg at bottling. The olive oil starts with a smooth buttery almond flavor that eventually leads to a slightly peppery and bitter finish. 
  • Grape Spotlight: San Marco from Trentino-Alto Adige to the Outer Coastal Plain AVA

    Posted: 2026-04-01 15:42

    San Marco is a Vitis vinifera red wine grape created in 1993 by breeder Marco Stefanini at the Fondazione Edmund Mach in Trentino-Alto Adige. It is a cross of the very popular Trentino-Alto Adige grapes Teroldego × Lagrein in order to create a wine grape that ripens fully in cooler climates; resist botrytis better than its parents; and still produced deeply colored and structured wines. 

    In 2011, Larry Coia of Bellview Winery visited the Foundation Edmund Mach and learned about EC02 - the name originally given to this grape. Trentino-Alto Adige experiences hot summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal shifts which are conditions similar to parts of the U.S. East Coast. Thus, through his recommendation,  the following year the Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association (OCPVA) imported the grape into the U.S.. Following release from quarantine, the OCPVA trademarked the name as San Marcus and through a petition from Bellview Winery, the TTP approved use of San Marco as a registered grape variety.

    The Outer Coastal Plain AVA, established in 2007 and expanded in 2017, stretches across 2.25 million acres of southern and southeastern New Jersey, making it one of the largest and most quietly influential winegrowing regions on the East Coast. The region’s defining feature is its uniform soil profile—well‑drained sandy and sandy‑loam soils derived from ancient coastal sediments, naturally low in fertility and pH, which help control vine vigor and encourage deep rooting. Climatically, the AVA benefits from a 188‑ to 217‑day growing season, moderate rainfall, and the moderating effects of the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay, which reduce frost risk and temper heat spikes.

    San Marco thrives in environments with hot summers, cold winters, and when planted in sandy and clay soils. It buds late helping to shield from Spring frost and produces medium sized and loose clusters. It seems more suited for VSP training and shares a similar late-midseason harvest as Cabernet Franc. Although it is resistant to botrytis, it is not resistant to black rot or downy mildew.

    Autumn Lake Winery, located in Williamstown, New Jersey, is one of the Outer Coastal Plain AVA producers actively developing and releasing wines from San Marco. I was able to sample their 2021 San Marco at the 2026 Eastern Winery Exposition and was impressed with the dark fruit, structure, and smooth tannins shown by this wine. 

  • The Essence of the Olive: California’s Modern Revival with Cobram Estate

    Posted: 2026-03-27 09:42

    California’s olive‑oil story is a blend of old roots and new energy. Spanish missionaries planted the first olive trees along the coast in the late 18th century, establishing groves that supported local communities for generations. Commercial production expanded in the late 1800s, but it wasn’t until the 1990s that a true quality‑driven revival began. Growers adopted modern milling technology, planted high‑density orchards, and focused on early harvesting to produce cleaner, fresher oils. Today, California is recognized as a leading producer of extra virgin olive oil in the United States, with a reputation built on transparency, strict standards, and a commitment to freshness.

    Varieties Shaped by Climate and Craft
    California’s diverse climates—from the cool Sonoma coast to the warm Central Valley—support a wide range of olive varieties.

    • Arbequina — Widely planted in high‑density orchards, producing smooth, fruity oils with notes of green apple and almond.

    • Arbosana — A Spanish variety that thrives in California’s warm valleys, yielding structured oils with herbaceous, nutty tones.

    • Koroneiki — Originally from Greece, now common in California for its robust character, high polyphenols, and peppery finish.

    • Mission — California’s heritage variety, descended from the original mission plantings, offering a mild, balanced profile with soft fruit and light spice.

    Producers often blend these varieties to create oils that balance fruitiness, bitterness, and pungency, while single‑varietal bottlings highlight the state’s microclimates and precise milling practices.

    What Defines California EVOO
    California’s producers emphasize freshness and clarity. Early harvesting is common, resulting in greener, more aromatic oils with higher antioxidant levels. Modern mills allow olives to be crushed within hours of picking, preserving volatile aromas and minimizing defects. The state’s standards were established by the Olive Oil Commission of California (OOCC) to reinforce quality by requiring chemical and sensory testing. Membership is mandatory for producers who produce 5,000 gallons or more of olive oil annually. These standards often exceed international norms such as Free fatty acid or free acidity (FFA), Peroxide value (PV), and Ultra violet absorbency (UV).


    Free fatty acid or free acidity (FFA)
    A measurement of the breakdown of the fats. It gives some indication of oil quality based on fruit quality and handling. Although FFA does not change much over the life of oil, a lower FFA level at production will contribute to longer shelf life. The California standard is <=0.5 compared to <=0.8. Peroxide value (PV) A measure of peroxide compounds arising from primary oxidation. A high peroxide value usually indicates poor processing, and that the oil might not keep well. The final stage in oxidation is peroxide breakage, resulting in the formation of new compounds that we can perceive as rancid smelling. The California standard is <=15 compared to <=20. Ultra violet absorbency (UV) An indicator of oxidation using the UV spectrum at different wavelengths. K232 is considered a critical marker for good quality extra virgin olive oil. Oxidation is the result of natural aging or indicative of poor handling or heating during the refining process. The California standard is <=2.4 compared to <=2.5.

    Producer Spotlight: Cobram Estate
    Cobram Estate has become one of California’s most influential olive‑oil producers, combining large‑scale farming with a focus on precision and freshness. Originally founded in Australia, the company expanded into California’s Sacramento Valley, where warm days, cool nights, and well‑drained soils support high‑quality fruit. Their five orchards are planted primarily with Arbequina, Arbosana, and Koroneiki varieties that respond well to early harvesting and modern, high‑density farming. They also operate a nursey in the Sonoma Valley where only the strongest trees are planted in the orchards.

    The hallmark of Cobram Estate’s approach is control over every step of production. Olives are harvested mechanically at peak ripeness and milled within hours in their on‑site facility, preserving the green, aromatic compounds that define their style. Their oils are known for vivid fruit, balanced bitterness, and a clean peppery finish -- qualities that have earned consistent recognition in international competitions. They utilize a rigorous in-house lab testing process to evaluate every batch of olive oil to ensure its meets their own and OOCC standards.

    Cobram Estate produces four olive oil series, Everyday EssentialsCalifornia Select, First Harvest, and the Artisan Collection flavored olive oil. The California Select, and especially the First Harvest, are harvested and processed for providing healthy doses of polyphenols and antioxidants. I received three samples from the Everyday Essentials collection, which the name implies, is designed for daily use. The Mild must contain olives harvested later in the cycle and shows low bitterness, vanilla, and a delayed pepper finish. The Classic shows distinct tropical fruit, low bitterness, and a little less pepper. The Robust provides earthier notes, delayed pepper, and more body than the other two.

    Despite their scale, the Cobram Estate maintains a clear focus on stewardship, research, and sustainable farming, positioning them as a leader in California’s rising olive‑oil landscape.

  • Grape Spotlight: Montenegrin Krstač with 13. Jul – Plantaže

    Posted: 2026-03-23 07:00

    Montenegro’s wine-growing region near Lake Skadar, just 30 kilometers from the Adriatic Sea, is defined by its dramatic geography. The area is bordered by the high mountains of the Dinaric Alps, the Cijevna River, and the Skadar Lake basin, creating a Mediterranean-continental climate with hot summers and mild winters. Soils are diverse, with karst limestone, alluvial deposits, and red clay, supporting a range of indigenous and international grape varieties.

    At the heart of this region lies Ćemovsko Polje, one of the largest vineyards in Europe, spanning 2,300 hectares, hosting over 11.5 million vines, and located only 18 miles from the Adriatic Sea. This single complex vineyard is the flagship of 13. Jul – Plantaže, Montenegro’s leading wine producer. The vineyards are boarded on one side by the Cijevna  -- a subterranean river which broke through the rocks and created a picturesque canyon leaving layers of different types of stone where the vines were eventually planted. 

    The vineyard is situated on a plateau with an altitude between only 150 and 230 feet and it is surrounded by limestone hills, which defines it as a karst valley with extremely hot and dry summer and slightly cooler winter than in the coastal zone. The area receives an extremely limited amount of precipitation and plenty of sunny hours. But this scorching sun, which shines up to twelve hours a day during the summer is a major challenge along with the skeletal soil composed of chalky limestone, sand and gravel-strewn with many polished pebbles. 

    Krstač is a rare, indigenous white grape variety native to Montenegro. It thrives in the warm, dry conditions of Ćemovsko Polje and is known for its delicate floral aromas, crisp acidity, and subtle minerality. Wines made from Krstač are typically dry, light-bodied, and refreshing, often showing notes of white peach, pear, and citrus zest. It has a tight, medium sized cluster that is shaped like a cross -- leading to the name Krstač or Crusader in English. 

    13. Jul – Plantaže was founded in the 1960s emerging from a consolidation of farms in Podgorica, Danilovgrad, and Virpazar. Today, it is Montenegro’s largest wine producer and a regional powerhouse, exporting to over 40 countries. According to their website, they are the only winery in the world that produces wine from Krstač.  The grapes harvested from their estate at Ćemovsko Polje are vinified and aged at three wine cellars Lješkopolje (the company’s oldest wine cellar), Ćemovsko Polje (where most of the wine production occurs), and Šipčanik (a former military bunker). 

    The grapes for their 2023 Crnogorski Krstač were harvested from Ćemovsko Polje vines with the juice fermented and aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks. This is a surprisingly complex wine, a floral aroma, plenty of green apple and stone fruit, minerality, and a racy elevated finish. Love the acidity. 


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